18002099100
At Home in Puducherry
Table of contents
From organic chocolate to al fresco theatre, cycling tours to parasailing lessons, Puducherry has got a few secrets. Olympia Shilpa Gerald spills the beans.
Sometimes on late afternoons, when the sunshine is mellow and warm, I amble through the narrow, snoozing lanes where trees meet overhead; where commercial establishments hum beside crumbling Tamil houses, held fast by sturdy old pillars and verandas built for weary passers-by in a more trusting age. Broad, sun-dappled boulevards greet me on the other side, lined with mustard, apricot and tangerine walls with bursts of bougainvillea cascading over them; there is often a bicyclist pedalling by. Catching glimpses of blue water hugged by an even bluer sky between the streets, I quicken my pace to meet the sprawling Promenade. Beyond stretches the Bay of Bengal, cordoned off by craggy rocks, which the sea sometimes whispers to and sometimes whips, its waves crashing all over them. The dualism does not end with the colonial division of the Old Town into White and Black, French and Tamil—it remains the essence of Puducherry, where the contemporary and colonial, hedonistic and spiritual, tranquil and chaotic, past and present wonderfully coexist.
Not many cities in India can claim to be so compact and yet so cosmopolitan—the expats, people drawn by the ideology of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother, French citizens, old Pondicherrians, new settlers—all contribute to this diversity. Eventually, I learnt how to become intimate with the many shades of blue that is the Bay of Bengal, savour elusive moonrises while perched high on the rocks, relish the way it rains in one torrid, rapturous outburst. I also found that your feet are all you need to explore the town. Designed by the Dutch, coveted by the English, built by the French, engaged in trading with Rome: in this city, glimpses of Mediterranean Europe linger. The French connection is the strongest, which collides with Indian sensibilities to create a concoction that’s uniquely Puducherry. Don’t be surprised by shoppers with strings of jasmine in their hair conversing in fluent French or if an autorickshaw-driver greets you with a resounding ‘Bonjour’. The doors and windows of the French Quarter are a fascinating study in photography, while the cool glades of Bharati Park, with the city’s iconic monument, the Aayi Mandapam are perfect to just sit and gaze. The Botanical Garden attracts many a Life of Pi fan eager to spot Richard Parker’s zoo, only to find it the fruit of fiction.
For an intimate experience of the French side of the town, stay in one of the heritage hotels in Pondicherry that come fitted with canopy beds, like Hotel de l’Orient. The most luxurious option in these parts is LA VILLA, which balance vintage and contemporary.
The other side of the canal is a study in contrast, with its narrow streets named after temples, heady with camphor and resounding with the peals of temple bells. Stretches of Vysial Street, Eswaran Koil Street and Perumal Koil Street retain the quaint charm that once inspired celebrated Tamil poets such as Subramania Bharathi and Bharathidasan. And on Aurobindo Street, the beautifully restored INTACH building and its permanent exhibition are a standing testament to the city’s efforts to conserve its heritage and architecture. At the heart of the Tamil Quarter are the bustling Nehru and Mission Streets, flanked in equal measure by branded showrooms and street side bargain buys.
Puducherry, I think, makes us pause to wonder, to find the parts of ourselves we lose while rushing between traffic lights, trapped in glass and steel edifices, chasing the undefined. It helps us hear our thoughts above the din and sometimes, the sound of a voice within. In the words of that much-loved fictional bear, Winnie the Pooh, “Rivers know this: there is no hurry; we shall get there some day.” Pondicherry knows that secret, too.
To read more grab your copy of Condé Nast Traveller India’s February-March 2016 issue on stands now.
Table of contents
Recommended Articles for you
Hotter Than Hot: Exploring India’s Hottest Destinations
Reading Time: 10 minutes 0 0 Exploring the hottest places in India reveals more than just extreme temperatures; it uncovers a rich tapestry of cultures, intriguing histories, and breathtaking landscapes. From the arid deserts of Rajasthan to the blazing plains of Uttar Pradesh, each […]
10 Best Places To Visit In July In India On A Budget
Reading Time: 11 minutes 0 0 July, with its refreshing monsoon showers, transforms India into a vibrant tapestry of lush greenery and spectacular landscapes. For those who wish to explore the beauty of this transformation without causing a dent in their wallets, there are […]
Top 10 Coldest Places In India You Must Visit This Winter
Reading Time: 8 minutes 0 0 As winter approaches, the quest for crisp air and snow-covered landscapes draws many away from India’s typically mild winters. Embrace the season by venturing into the country’s coldest regions, where each destination offers a unique blend of natural […]
12 Best Places To Visit In November In India In 2025
Reading Time: 8 minutes 0 0 November is a month of vibrant transitions in India, offering an array of travel experiences from the cool Himalayan foothills to the warm beaches of the south. If you’re planning your travel itinerary for November 2024, India presents […]
10 Stunning Places To Visit In October In India To Experience the Autumn
Reading Time: 11 minutes 0 0 10 Stunning Places To Visit In October In India To Experience the Autumn October marks a magical time in India when the monsoon rains have ceased, and the landscape bursts with vibrant colours, making it an outstanding month […]
September Travel Guide – 8 Offbeat Places to Visit in September in India
Reading Time: 4 minutes 0 0 As the monsoon starts to wane, September brings forth the vibrant palette of India with its pleasant climate and colourful festivals, making it an ideal time for offbeat travels. This guide delves into eight unique destinations across India […]
Explore Top Places to Visit in India this August
Reading Time: 11 minutes 0 0 August in India isn’t just about monsoon rains; it’s a month that opens up an array of travel possibilities across the country. From the cool hill stations to the less crowded beaches, the best places to visit in […]
10 Best Places to Visit in November Outside India on a Budget
Reading Time: 8 minutes 0 0 As November rolls in with its mild weather and the promise of new experiences, many Indian travellers start looking for the perfect overseas getaway that doesn’t break the bank. If you’re planning to explore new cultures, cuisines, and […]
Top 10 Best Countries to Visit in October for Stunning Autumn Views
Reading Time: 9 minutes 0 0 Top 10 Best Countries to Visit in October for Stunning Autumn Views As October rolls in, so does the magical palette of autumn, transforming the landscapes of various countries into a vivid mosaic of colours. The crisp air […]
A Simple Explanation of Currency Pairs for Forex Beginners
Reading Time: 4 minutes 0 0 The foreign exchange market, or Forex, is the largest financial market in the world, with trillions of dollars traded daily. For beginners, understanding the basics is crucial to navigating this dynamic market. One of the most fundamental concepts […]
Which Currency is Best to Use in Dubai?
Reading Time: 4 minutes 0 0 Dubai, one of the world’s most vibrant and luxurious destinations, attracts millions of tourists and business travellers each year. Known for its towering skyscrapers, world-class shopping malls, and rich cultural experiences, Dubai’s allure often raises a common question […]
Step-by-Step Guide to Reloading and Unloading Your Forex Card
Reading Time: 5 minutes 0 0 A Forex card is an indispensable tool for international travellers, offering a secure, convenient, and cost-effective way to carry foreign currency. Whether you are a frequent flyer, a student studying abroad, or simply on holiday, a Forex card […]
5 Best Places to Visit in August Outside India in 2025
Reading Time: 9 minutes 1 0 As August approaches, many travellers seek destinations that offer a change of pace from the usual summer heat. Whether you’re escaping the warm Indian climate or looking to experience unique cultural events, August presents the perfect opportunity for […]
What is the Interbank Rate? A Guide to Foreign Exchange Pricing
Reading Time: 4 minutes 0 0 The interbank rate is a cornerstone of global finance, particularly in the foreign exchange (forex) market. It represents the rate at which banks trade currencies with one another, forming the foundation for exchange rates that individuals and businesses […]
8 Best Countries to Visit in July: Top Picks for Your Summer Getaway
Reading Time: 8 minutes 0 0 July is a fantastic month for travel, with the warm embrace of summer casting a golden glow over many of the world’s most captivating destinations. The longer days and vibrant energy make it the perfect time to explore […]
Understanding Foreign Transaction Fees and How to Avoid Them
Reading Time: 4 minutes 0 0 When travelling abroad or shopping online from international websites, one cost often overlooked is foreign transaction fees. These fees, while seemingly small, can add up quickly, increasing the total cost of purchases made in a foreign currency. Understanding […]
15 Best Places To Visit In April In India For An Exciting Spring Break
Reading Time: 9 minutes 0 0 April in India is a month of vibrant transitions and a wonderful time to explore its diverse landscapes. With the harsh winter receding and the scorching summer yet to set in, conditions are just right for discovering the […]
10 Best Places To Visit In May In India 2025 For A Thrilling Summer Escape
Reading Time: 10 minutes 0 0 As the summer sun brightens the Indian landscape, May is a wonderful time to explore the beauty and diversity of this vast country. From the cool hill stations in the north to the lush greenery of the south, […]
6 Budget Friendly Places to Visit in May Outside India
Reading Time: 8 minutes 0 0 Travelling outside India doesn’t have to be expensive! With a bit of planning, you can explore incredible international destinations on a budget while still enjoying unique cultural experiences and stunning landscapes. From the ancient temples of Southeast Asia […]
Why These Are the Best Countries to Visit in February: Travel Recommendations
Reading Time: 12 minutes 1 0 February may not be the first month that comes to mind for travel, but it’s an underrated gem for those seeking unique experiences without the crowds of peak tourist seasons. As the world transitions between winter and spring, […]